Corsair Editions - Récit (en anglais) - Barbarian Days, a surfing life (William Finnegan)
| Destination | Monde |
|---|---|
| Thème | Sport, Lecture en V.O |
| Auteur | William Finnegan |
| Edition, collection | Corsair |
Détails de l'article
Voici comment l'éditeur présente ce récit sur son site :
Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer)
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.
New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
(Présentation de l'éditeur)
L'autobiographie passionnante d'un mordu du surf, qui arrive par une narration passionnante à nous emmener avec lui dans le creux des vagues. En arrière plan, l'auteur, journaliste de guerre, sillonne le Monde pour couvrir les différents conflits des années 1970. Coup de cœur, ici à la librairie
